A wonderful trek from Dali up to Yongning in Yunnan
Info 2006. Back to: Trek, Destionations, Yunnan

Here we are, it's time to do something else.....a nice experience in northern Yunnan, a really beckoning and warm-hearted province .

Here, near the Lugu lake, our trek ends, with almost 500km of walking... with the feeling to have lived "something", inwardly fulfilling and humanly speaking.

From Dali to Lijiang

Day 1

Ten o‘clock in the morning and it is time to go. We left the MCA Guesthouse where the day before, we spent a really nice time with other travellers. We went through the old city and we went on a tarmac road. Little by little we left the place that brought us the first genuine Chinese "vibrations" . A few kilometres further we turn right to walk on labyrinthine dikes which separates the land into different cultivated fields. In these fields, we spent many hours trying to find a straight route out. At such a slow and easy pace, we have time to enjoy the surrounding scenery and to talk to the native people, who are either pounding away in the fields or bustling in the villages we crossed. Most of them were intrigued to see two foreigners with laden backpacks and high-tech gadgets walking on these fields rather than in a car or bus.

So why are we walking? It is simply to discover the world on foot and walking is definitely a good way to do so. Greetings from the locals energizes our walking. Our first priority walking into villages was to look for water as we could not carry too much water with us. For this reason we also have a water filter pump that can be used on river water. To the villagers, we speaks in Chinese to ask for water "you mei you shui" or "wo men zhao shui haishi shangdian". Trying to speak Chinese is all part and parcel and the fun of the trip.

Some of the tracks separating the fields are so narrow that we felt like we were tightrope walkers. And it was next to these fields at the shores of Erhai Lake that we have our first "off-road" dinner and camp. Our first night of freedom in the Yunnan province!

Day 2

On the second day we walked alongside a tarmac road, after a few kilometres in the fields, From the roadside, we head towards the soaring hills at the end of Erhai Lake. We managed to find our way in the hills and got to the top after some drenching walk. From the top, we turned back to spend a few minutes to enjoy the panorama of the fields that we left a few hours before.

Looking ahead and downhill are fields on rolling hills. The hills are like mushrooms sprouting chaotically from the ground; however there is a certain harmony to the chaos that made it soothing to look at. We went ahead to the other side of this hill and found a snug place to spend the night, camping in the open.

Day 3

In the morning, we went down the valley trying to reach a dark green track snacking the light green fields which we spotted the day before from the top of the hill. Along the way, we asked around, looking for the river which we found from directions given by a Han hawker whom we bought bread from. We then followed the river through a tiny forest flanking the river. There were lots of squirrels leaping from tree to tree, keeping us company in the forest.

Later a Han farmer had lunch alongside us. He was amazed with our camping stove and solar panels but it did not take him long to figure out what they are. I attempted a conversation with him with my basic Chinese, which, of course, is rather hilarious.

After lunch, we continued alongside the river until the path ends at the bottom of two mountains. We would have continued on this track alongside the river to cross the valley but had to switch to walk the tarmac road as the river dried up further on. As such the track was strewn with pebbles, rocks and boulders; some of them were so huge that we had to climb over them.

We decided to set up tent in a stark field, a few kilometres down the road. I had an idea of collecting some leaves to make a soft rest under our tent for a more comfortable sleep. I jumped into a field to the right of our campsite to collect leaves, only to discover that it was all muddy and soft. I ended up sinking into the mud up to calf-level, which of course ruin my trousers- and still sleeping on hard ground for the night.

Day 4

We alternate between concrete roads, muddy trails and narrow dikes snaking in the fields or streets going through villages. In one of these villages, the kids were absolutely surprised to see us, 2 French tourists. They swarmed around us, creating a circus. Some tried to speak to us and were surprised that we could speak a few Chinese words. They were absolutely delighted to be able to see themselves in my camcorder's LCD. We had some great fun and warm-hearted moments together. That night, we set up tent in a cultivated plot so as not to alarm the villagers.

Day 5

We set off very early in the morning as we did not want to be found by the farm owner that we tampered with his crop (to set up tent). We passed the village and headed towards some hills on the right of the trail. It was here that we had the best memory of the whole trek.

Before climbing the hill we walked across a nice village. We met a lot of kids heading towards school and like the day before the camcorder did its trick in entertaining them. Their laughter attracted the attention of the adults. One of them invited us to a meal but we were not hungry as it was still early. Anyway we did accept the offer to have tea- real Chinese green tea. We went to a community dining hall where quite a few of the villagers brought and shared their meals. We were received as kings and were the centre of attraction. We had a great time, spending over two hours, taking lots of pictures of the villagers and had the most tasty, lavish meal of our trek. It was a fantastic and incredibly memorable experience. The spontaneity, friendliness and hospitality of the villagers were in abundant display. We were quite sad to have to say goodbye and move on.

That afternoon, we walked alongside a muddy trail, zigzagging up the hill. We spent the night next to this trail.

Day 6

We climbed up to 3000m high during the day before heading downhill for a few hours. It was the only overcast day of our trek. We passed a coalmine where everything was covered with black soot- the miners, the houses and the surroundings- similar to the setting of the French novel "Germinal" written by Emile Zola. We set up tent in a pine forest with the plain a few kilometres further.

Day 7

We walk alongside a river to reach the plain skirting a hill in front of us. On the way, we met a few Chinese working in an old hydroelectric power plant. Further on, we came to a stunning artificial lake, with a thin albeit mystical haze complementing the scenery. We stayed at the shore for a few minutes enjoying the scenery.

We continued alongside terraced farms surrounding a gorgeous village. That evening we set up tent close to a lake where we enjoyed the calls of wild ducks.

Day 8

According to the google maps there are supposed to be flat lands up to Lijiang except a hill ahead of us. When we came close to the hill we saw a crack and we thought we could probably walk through it. As we got closer we knew we could not get through but our curiosity took us to the entrance of the crack where we could see a cobblestone path going into it. However a few metres further down, the path was blocked by a gate; meaning we must backtrack and climb the hill. We did that; and it was rather scary as the climb was really steep.

Near the top, we saw a concrete canal in the upper part of the canyon. As we did not want to walk alongside the road, we forked on the left going through some bush. However after a while we gave up as it was tough walking through the bush; we went back up to the road.

Wearily we kept climbing, hoping to find a marked path. Finally we found it and we followed it up to the canal. It was a narrow vertical walk from where we could see the canyon that we couldn't go through a few hours before. We were walking as if we were some tightrope walkers! Anyway the breathtaking view compensated for all the hard work. We headed down again from the top and we finished the trek walking two hours on a tarmac road all the way to Lijiang.

Rest in Lijiang

We stayed a week in Lijiang to relax and recuperate, especially my blisters. Lijiang is a really laid-back town with cobblestone and narrow streets lined with rickety houses. There are Chinese lanterns hang up at night with Naxi girls singing on both sides of a stream snaking in the town.

We extended our visas for one more month and spent our Christmas in Lijiang. We headed towards the north-west and the Tiger Leaping Gorge, a highly touristy spot in the spring, on the morning of 27 December.

From Lijiang to the Tiger Leaping Gorge

Day 9

We left Lijiang old town reluctantly. We speedily passed through the new town, heading to the north, with YulongXueShan in the background. This mighty mountain meaning "Jade Dragon Snow Mountain" overlooks the area.

A few hours later were back in the nature. The scenery is now different with more hills.

We climbed our first hill, skirting what looks like a stone quarry.  And we can enjoy the view, a murky lake surrounded by hills, fields and convoluted separations are definitely over.

We head to the right and began our first tough climbing. As it was getting dark, we set up tent near a shepherd's house. The intrigued shepherd came to investigate. Afraid that he may ask us to leave, we gave him a cigarette and a chocolate bar. He left us alone.

Day 10

The next day, we climbed further and had a stunning view of a lake. When we got to the top of a hill, we found that there are more to climb further on. We passed through a forest that looks like the Fangorn forest in "Lord of the Rings"; we were surrounded by lichen-covered oaks. The lichen also droops from the branches and reinforces the mystical atmosphere. We were like Frodo and Sam carrying the ring up to Mordor!

We got to another village where we bought some stuff- fruit juice, industrial sausages and others that I could not tell the contents. After having a brief talk with the villagers we went on a muddy road alongside the YulongXueshan range. The road ends in another village. We continued on the path but it soon disappeared. We have to cut through a dense forest with no clear trails; it does not appear that anyone walks this way at all. Out of the forest, we finally found a trail downhill.

Day 11

The 3rd day we walked downhill for several kilometres following a muddy road, until we reach the bank of the Yangtze River. We then followed it up to the Tiger Leaping Gorge. We stopped at a friendly guesthouse where we enjoy a pizza with Tibetan yak meat- definitely not something one can find in Europe! There is also banana pancake with just about everything on it (chocolate, honey, raisins, sesame seeds...). Nothing better to fill up energy with!

The Tiger Leaping Gorge  

Day 12

We started on the high trail that overlooks the Tiger Leaping Gorge with breathtaking scenery. The gorge looks like a crack in the mountains. Even though it was tough climbing with heavy backpacks, we thoroughly enjoy the walk.

We spent the night in the Half-Way Guesthouse. On the way we saw a sign listing all the things they offer and the funniest item was "panoramic view of the gorges from the toilet" And it is true- the toilet view is really breathtaking. They also make an unforgettable apple pie. Even though you may not like impressive cliffs, just go there to enjoy the apple pie!

Day 13

The next day was really short because we decided to celebrate the New Year inside the gorges. In the afternoon we went down to the river and it was really worthwhile doing so. Part of the path is really narrow (less than 40cm) and one can see the river 100m below. Closer to the river, the view dominated by 2 impressive stone walls, is even more breathtaking (they look like the 2 Argonauts in "Lord of the Rings"). Beside the river one will hear the “tiger” roaring!

For a New Year Eve fiesta, it was really short- the shortest in my life. At 12h10 I was already in bed! Hiking is so tiring!

Day 14

We started the New Year the same way we finished the previous year- on foot. We walked alongside the tarmac road up to Daju. Compared to the previous days, the walk was disappointing. We crossed the Yangtze River taking a small ferry.

Daju to Baoshan

Day 15

During the day, we climbed 1000m where we looked back at the end of the gorges behind us. At the end of the day we walked through a nice pine forest where we set up tent.

Day 16

Today was the longest of our trek- we walked more than 40km. As we do not have a guide we simply follow a muddy trail up to Baoshan, fearing that we may lose our way. We arrived there rather late, with our headlights on. Unfortunately we could not enjoy this scenic village; anyway we were too tired to enjoy it.

Baoshan to Yongning (Lugu lake)

Day 17

We spent some time the next morning looking around the village. The village is rather amazing- part of the village is built on a mountainside and the other part called Shitousheng is perched on a rock and surrounded by light green rice terraces. The terraces look more like a painting than farmland. WOWOW, these farmers are artists for sure!

In the afternoon we head towards the north walking up towards a mountain that looms ahead. We were quite sure that there are no trails to go over the mountain. After 2 attempts, we lost our way and so we decided to backtrack and to skirt the mountain. We got lost again and spent quite some time trying to find an easy route. We then decided that we should look for flat land to set up tent. We found what seems like a horse paddock. However the landlord kept staring at us from his house; so I decided to ask his permission to camp on his land. And I also joked in my broken Chinese that perhaps we can sleep in his house. 10 minutes later we were settled in his house. We shared a nice green tea around his fireplace.

Day 18

The next day our host told us that there is a pass in the mountain with 2 tunnels. I remembered reading about that on the chinabackpacker.com website when I was dreaming, preparing the trip from my computer. So we went back towards the mountain and this time we found the pass.

The trail is easy to follow and we walked up to Fengke, another gorgeous village. We spent that night in what seems more like a warehouse than a hotel; with rice and corn bags stocked in the middle of the room. Anyway a mattress is still a mattress and we slept very well that night.

Day 19

We started the day crossing the Yangtze River by a small boat. We wanted to finish the trek here as we do not have too many days left before going back to France (what a pity!). However when we arrived at the next village called Labo, we were told by one of the villager that there are no buses in the afternoon and the only way to reach the next village is to walk.. Anyway a few minutes later, the same villager came to tell us that he called a bus driver who could drop us off close to Lugu Lake, at Yongning village. After thinking hard, we decided to take the offer. We started this extra trip at 4:00pm.

The road forward was completely destroyed and we started regretting not to have gone on foot. A few kilometres further the minibus stopped to take a horse and its owner!

As it gets darker, I asked the driver if he has light. He answered affirmatively but actually the bus do not have any headlight; what the driver meant was a flashlight! What a funny but dangerous ride- the road was illuminated by a torchlight! We went on for several kilometres until a flat tyre stopped us. We stayed frozen at the back of the minibus while the driver attempted to patch the inner tube.

One hour later we started on the ride again; but the tyre was not hard enough and we had to stop again to try to inflate it. However we did not complete the ride. As the torchlight was really too dim to illuminate the road, the driver missed a bend and we ended up with the two left wheels hanging off the side of the road, with us still in the bus. Exhausted we decided that's it for the day and we proceed to set up tent. We never pitched a tent as fast as we did that night. The rest of night was more... quiet.

Day 20

We were woken up the next morning by the locals bustling around the minibus. We decided that we won't continue by bus and we reach Yongning after several hours on foot. Somehow we were really happy to finish on foot... I still don't know why we decided to take the minibus instead of walking because in the end we did not save any day taking it.

Now we are back to our normal backpacker "life"

Open our eyes, open our heart and enjoy the trip...

Dorian

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