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Bingzhongluo, Yunnan

The most beautiful part of Nujiang Gorge starts from Binzhongluo. Bingzhongluo is another one-street town. It has a strong Tibetan flavor as most of the inhabitants around it are Tibetans and Nus and it is very close to Tibet itself. Immediately outside the main street to the east, small plots of farms spread out in terraces towards the river. There are more farms (mainly wheat) across the river on a beautiful peninsula jutting into the river- the Plum “Island”. The west of Bingzhongluo is backed by a few snow peaks.

Things to See:

Map: Around Bingzhongluo

There are easy and beautiful walks to nearby villages and along the Nujiang. A few kms outside of town, the river widens and cuts very deep and dramatic gorges. Villages on the other bank of the river are accessed either by narrow bridges constructed of small wooden planks/bamboo stringed together with rattan tied to trees; or by sliding on overhead cables that span the river. The cables are tied to trees on either side of the river and to cross, one is suspended and slide from a rope loop attached to a harness wear around the waist.

Chala, Shuangla, Drung Village

Wuli, Qiunatong

There are 35 km from Bingzhongluo to the Yunnan-Tibet border. The road up north is a gravel road that snakes along the Nujiang. It passes a few small pretty villages including WuLi 五里. 20 km north of Bingzhongluo, there is a side trail leading to another charming Nu village named Qiunatong 秋那桶. (accommodation in the village is possible, staying with villagers) . Transport from town is available in the form of delivery trucks or jeeps at about Y7.

From Qiunatong north, the road goes into Tibet connecting the village of Tsawarong. The road is only passable for a few months of the year due to snow. Even within these few months, it is frequently blocked by regular landslides at different segments. Therefore practically the road is not motorable for at least 9 months of the year. The only reliable way north to Tibet from here is by walking which is what the locals had been doing for eons and still does.

Getting there and away:

See Nujiang Gorge - Getting there and away

Vans run when they are reasonably full between Gongshan and Bingzhongluo. However there are enough people who make the trip north to ensure that this is regular. The ride cost around Y10 following the Nujiang again.

Trucks in Bingzhongluo run north to various villages along the Nujiang including Wuli, Qiunatong, and even further north to Tsawarong in Tibet when the road is not blocked by landslides. Normarly they leave Bingzhongluo between 8:00 and 9:30 in the morning.

Bingzhongluo - Dimaluo:
The truck driver can send you from Bingzhongluo directly to Dimaluo village.

 

Accomodations:

There are a few hotels in town. The best is Yudong Hotel 玉洞宾馆. (Tel : 0886-3581153) with comfortable standard doubles at Y100 per night with hot shower, possible to negotiate to Y80. Their dormitory rooms are often fully occupied. One can get accommodation for about Y40 for a double with shared bathroom and toilet.

Mother Ding's Hostel 丁大妈家 in Chongding village 重丁村. (0886-3581144)
This hostel is quite famous among Chinese backpackers. All rooms have either two or three beds, Y15 to Y20 per bed. Shared bathroom, a beautiful court with nice views. Meals are around Y5 per person for dinner and Y3 for breakfast. It is always fully booked during Chinese holidays. There are several Nu families in Chongding village offer home-stay to travelers. We found it was less convenient to stay at Chongding village than in Bingzhongluo town if one would like to talk to caravans, find bus and restaurants, buying provisions.

 

Written by CBP in July 2005



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